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After fleeing Vietnam at the end of the war, Ma Tu worked to establish a restaurant that featured the same French-inspired Vietnamese cuisine she had served in her restaurant in Saigon. In 1990, the Tu family matriarch opened the original Taste of Saigon on Hungerford Drive just off Rockville Pike, and served a loyal fan base for some 15 years. With the development of Rockville Town Center, Taste of Saigon secured an anchor location in a spiffy new building on Maryland Avenue, within view of its former location.

The logo for the restaurant, bamboo leaves encircled by a green circle, celebrates family and good health, with red letters that wish good fortune for everyone. The word "Saigon" is written in a traditional Vietnamese calligraphic style in order to celebrate family heritage as well as their fulfillment of an American dream in the form of a good Vietnamese restaurant.

While the new incarnation of Taste of Saigon has been open only four months, it operates with the polished momentum of a well-established institution. Its footprint is small, but the new dining room and adjoining lounge have a lot of vertical space and a wall of windows at street level, giving the space a breezy open feel. Movable glass and steel partitions that resemble the sails of Southeast Asia's iconic fishing boats stand between dining room and lounge.

Classic Vietnamese dishes, well crafted and nicely presented at a good value, arrive promptly with friendly service. The Saigon Dumplings are properly rolled, filled with shrimp and pork, steamed, then finished in a hot pan for a pleasing slightly bitter caramel finish. Wilted watercress is more than a colorful bed; it is tastefully cooked and seasoned with a briny sweet sauce. Imperial Rolls are packed with more salad and shrimp than the usual summer roll, and are a delightful magnet for the accompanying bittersweet hosin and peanut dipping sauce.

Our grilled beef wrapped in grape leaves was slightly overcooked, but regained moisture from the mildly sweet and spicy mirin dipping sauce. Caramel Fish was a successful balancing act of sweet, sour, bitter and salt, all supporting a nice piece of fish.

Of the entrees, an array of grilled shrimp, slivers of pork and a fried spring roll atop a nest of well-dressed noodles constitute the Vermicelli Combination. Grilled beef salad with spicy lime dressing boasts the flavor of an open flame on meat with leafy greens and thinly sliced cucumber, red pepper, red onion, cilantro and lime. Pho Saigon is a little more subdued than the heaping bowls of broth, noodles and meat found at some cafes; the flavors are more refined and subtly seasoned with anise.

The French influence is evident in Saigon Beef Stew, morsels of beef simmered in a rich brown sauce. It's like a well-executed French beef bourguignon, yet garnished with sweet spices and fresh cilantro. Braised Lamb Shank is a massive pleaser, flavorful lamb braised on the bone to a velvety finish in a rich broth, a combination of French technique with Asian flair. Western style steak and grilled salmon specials get a Vietnamese treatment via a garnish of steamed vegetables and shrimp.

Taste of Saigon

Rockville Town Square

20 A Maryland Ave., Rockville

301-424-7222

Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; 4:30-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs; 4:30-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 4:30-9:30 p.m. Sun.

Style of cuisine: French-inspired Vietnamese

Starters: $4.99 - $10.99

Entrees: $8.99 - $24.99

Credit cards: All major cards

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www.tasteofsaigon.com