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Thomas Wolfe wrote "You Can't Go Home Again" some 70 years ago. I disagree. It has been a while, though not that long, since I revisited Il Pizzico. In nearly 20 years, Enzo Livia's storefront deli with 10 tiny tables grew into an 88-seat restaurant, winner of the myriad of awards displayed at its entrance.

Stepping into Il Pizzico now brings back all the things I liked in the first place: a cozy, welcoming ambiance, an authentic menu, professional service. Livia's wife Sandra graciously greets guests. The chef himself makes the rounds at tables, chatting amiably. Frescoes by local artists adorn the golden walls. Through three trompe l'oiel "windows," diners look out onto a verdant Italian hillside.

The toughest thing at Il Pizzico — once you have gotten in, that is, since they don't take reservations — is choosing from the tempting menu. On request, the chef will make up tasting plates for groups, I learn. One problem solved.

The soup this evening is butternut squash, in line with Livia's emphasis on seasonal ingredients. Fresh anchovies with pine nuts and raisins are a special we can't pass up.

We choose the arancine rivisitate, having enjoyed these meat and mozzarella-filled rice croquettes in Positano. "These are better," my friend says, relishing the rich taleggio fonduta.

Risotto del giorno changes daily as the name indicates, allowing the chef to use the market basket to the fullest. He offered a corn and crabmeat Maryland-themed risotto during the summer; in season, asparagus or wild mushrooms may turn up. If truffles are the right price, he might offer risotto with truffles, and with a sausage maker he likes, he'll use that ingredient more often, he says.

At the moment, Livia is tweaking his menu for fall and winter, so some of the dishes we sampled may not be available. Take for example, the outstanding spiedino di gamberi e capesante alla griglia con salsa di sedano, that is, grilled shrimp and diver scallops served with celery sauce and braised fennel. The skewered shrimp are fine, the scallops even better. This will show up on the new menu in a brandied cream sauce rather than a celery sauce.

Livia admits that updating a menu is difficult. He dares not tinker with favorites lest he incur the wrath of regulars. Homemade ravioli filled with mushrooms and ricotta served with pistachio-cream sauce is a sure bet to stay on the menu as is the dish named for his wife. Scaloppine alla Sandra is lovely, the veal perked up with pine nuts, raisins, rosemary and white wine.

In another perennial, salmone alla Kiara, Livia adds his magic to sautéed salmon. The succulent filet is wrapped in prosciutto and served on a bed of scrumptious spinach with a lemon sauce.

Filetto di maiale, perfectly roasted pork tenderloin takes an unexpected and delicious twist, with onions cooked in balsamic vinegar and a gorgonzola sauce.

Offering specials allows the chef to exercise his creativity. With the cold weather, he looks forward to tripe and gamey meats like duck, pheasant, venison and a mixed grill with sausage.

"It's a challenge every day," he says. "I try to be more sustainable, to use more local providers."

Luscious cannoli are made in-house from imported Italian sheep's milk ricotta and chocolate chips. Livia uses outside suppliers that meet his high standards for a decadent hazelnut-accented chocolate gelato and the mini almond biscotti known as cantucci, traditionally dunked in vin santo. We opt for coffee, less robust than its European counterpart.

From a wine list ranging from the $30s to more than $100, our waiter suggests one of the less expensive reds. The 2004 Rosso Piceno Superiore, a very drinkable blend of 70 percent Montepulciano and 30 percent Sangiovese, complements our food.

Livia bounces back and forth between Il Pizzico and his other restaurant, Spezie in the District where his partner does most of the cooking. Fortunately for us, his schedule begins and ends in Rockville.

You can go home again — and find the chef in the kitchen.