Grape Lines: Fruity roses, whites and reds end summer on a high note

Roses are perfect examples. From Oregon, the delicious, cinnamon-scented Soter Pinot Noir Rose 2007 ($20), with strawberry and cherry flavors, is crafted with a little Pinot Gris and Chardonnay to give it a bit more body. It remains supple enough to work well with typical summer fare. Another excellent choice is the most recent vintage of Etude Carneros Pinot Noir Rose 2007 ($15) that has watermelon, orange and strawberry flavors with a hint of spice.

From France's Provence region, the lovely Commanderie de la Bargemone 2007 ($14) is just the thing for sipping beside the pool. The blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Carignan has floral aromas, tart red berry, orange zest and cherry flavors and a long finish. A real value is the tasty Spanish Marques de Caceres Rioja Rose 2007 ($8) with red cherry, tangerine and peach notes.

Sauvignon Blancs are a perennial summer favorite. A pleasant grassiness is apparent in both the melon and green-apple flavored Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2006 ($18) and the Souverain Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16) that also has crisp grapefruit, pineapple and mango flavors. Gooseberry predominates in the Seven Terraces Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12), along with guava, peach and pear notes.

Other pleasing summer white wines include the Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris 2007 ($15), with tangy pear and spicy citrus flavors along with a slightly sweet finish, and the J Wine Company Pinot Gris 2007 ($18), with spicy peach, pear and apple flavors, great balance and a lengthy finish. The unoaked value-priced White Truck Chardonnay 2007 ($9) is also slightly sweet, with its lime, melon and peach notes.

To accompany grilled steaks and burgers, try the Gallo Family Vineyards Syrah Sonoma Reserve 2005 ($15) with spicy toffee and earthy dark fruit flavors or the J Lohr Syrah Paso Robles South Ridge 2005 ($15) that has more noticeable red fruit along with pepper and smoke at the end. Another reasonably priced flavorful Syrah is the spicy, tobacco-scented Hocus Pocus Syrah Santa Barbara 2006 ($18), with red and black berry flavors. More extravagant is the splendid Rosenblum Syrah Kick Ranch Reserve 2005 ($38), with deep, peppery black plum and spicy berry flavors and a rich finish.

A slightly chilled bottle of Beaujolais is wonderful with grilled chicken or fish. The very enjoyable Drouhin Moulin-a-Vent 2006 ($21) has spicy cassis, fig and black fruit flavors while the anise, dark cherry and plum-flavored George Duboeuf Morgon Jean Descombes 2006 ($13) is equally good. Another fine summer choice is Eola Hills Oregon Pinot Noir 2006 ($12), with raspberry, strawberry and cherry notes and a touch of spearmint at the end. Floral, plum and cherry flavors predominate in the Erath Oregon Pinot Noir 2006 ($19), while the Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Whole Cluster Fermented 2006 ($19) is more complex, with red berry, plum and cherry notes.

Sangiovese is a classic food-friendly Italian grape now being grown in the U.S. with notable success. Seghesio Sangiovese Alexander Valley 2005 ($23) has concentrated red and black cherry flavors, while the coffee-scented Altamura Sangiovese Napa Valley 2004 ($45) has deep, rich currant, black fruit and spicy cherry notes. A bit lighter in style but still very good is the Sausal Sangiovese Alexander Valley 2005 ($20), with strawberry, red berry and citrus flavors.