Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 9 a.m.-11 a.m., Sun. 9 a.m.-10 p.m.
Salads and vegetable dishes: $4.25 - $8.99
Entrees: $9.99 - $11.99
Credit cards: All major cards
Accessible
www.dessierestaurant.com
Upon entering Dessie Ethiopian Restaurant in Wheaton you are transported in what feels like a sleepy shop on the outskirts of Dessie, Ethiopia. Shelves lined with fragrant spices, incense, CDs of Ethiopian musicians, and sundry staples, including bags of injera—the crepe-like Ethiopian bread used to scope up food from plate to mouth.
Beyond the shop’s cashier is Dessie’s modest yet charismatic dining room populated with regulars from the local Ethiopian community. Colorful tapestries, baskets that double as tables, the scent of frankincense and the churning sound of West African pop music complete the experience.
Ethiopian food is simple and unpretentious. While Dessie Tomato Salad seems simple enough with iceberg lettuce and tomatoes, the healthy garnish of black pepper and freshly chopped jalapenos with a lean vinegary dressing is the real kicker.
Wot is a stew composed of onions, spice blends of varying degrees of intensity, and a preeminent ingredient such as beef, chicken, lamb, goat, lentils or string beans. Key Wot balances slow cooked beef and caramelized onions with seasonings and full throttle spices for a rich stew with a burn that escalates with each bite. Yebeg Tibs features seared cubes of lamb with vegetables, however our lamb was a little tough. Yatakilit wot is a refreshing stir fry of crunchy green beans with carrots, onion, garlic and ginger. While Tikil Gomen may seem simple: cabbage cooked with onions and peppers, characteristic seasoning make it stand out from routine ethnic cabbage accompaniments.
In Ethiopian cuisine, most food is served all at once on a large platter lined with an ample supply of injera. Veterans of Ethiopian eateries are practiced at the art of scooping up and eating the various preparations with a piece of injera, using just the fingers. Order one of the combination entrees to sample a wider variety.
The history of coffee begins in Ethiopia, and at Dessie Restaurant there is an intricate ritual involved in coffee service. A prominent section of Dessie’s dining room is a makeshift hearth with an array of pots, burners, cushions and incense that are all involved in extending this traditional hospitality. The coffee is dense, dark and potent, and is served with more decorum and sincerity than at usual coffee houses.
Ethiopian dining is as much about the hospitality as it is about the flavor and the flair. Our ever-smiling server warned us about the spices, and taught us how to use the injera to gather up the food. More than an eatery, Dessie has the feel of a familiar gathering place from a distant land. So over this summer, pick a hot humid evening to transport yourself to Dessie Restaurant for a good taste of somewhere else.
