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Atop a small hill, Michael and Barbara Scarborough scanned their 8-acre vineyard as the sun went down, examining a new stairway that leads to their next big project.
"Do we paint this a burgundy? Do you like the black?" Barbara asked her husband, referring to the lighted stairway that leads from the vineyard to the small hilltop, as they sipped on newly made Malbec wine.
The Scarboroug hs' Running Hare Vineyard in Prince Frederick in Calvert County, along with Joseph and Laura Layton's Layton's Chance Vineyard and Winery, formerly a conventional 1,300-acre farm, on the Eastern Shore, are two of the newest ventures in the state's burgeoning wine industry.
The Laytons, while eyeing retirement, were looking for options for their farm, with the profitability of traditional agriculture on the downswing. Their son proposed a winery and another Maryland vineyard was soon born. Now the Eastern Shore is the fastest-growing area of the state's wine industry, according to the Maryland Wineries Association.
There are 36 wineries licensed in Maryland, with the oldest, Boordy Vineyards in Hydes, established in 1945. Maryland wineries sold 270,280 gallons — 1.36 million bottles — in fiscal 2008, up 18.2 percent from 2007. Annual sales of Maryland wine in fiscal '08 are estimated at $15 million.
Projections for this year are less optimistic, according to Kevin Atticks, executive director of the winery association.
Sales are expected to grow again, he said, "but probably not the same 18 [percent] to 20 percent that we have seen."
Maryland's wineries produce more than 350 different wines, which are sold at more than 800 retailers and served at more than 200 restaurants. It's such growth potential that is drawing entrepreneurs such as the Scarboroughs and Laytons.
The Scarboroughs' Prince Frederick winery got a recent boost when the Calvert County Department of Economic Development created the Patuxent Wine Trail, a suggested itinerary for touring the county's five wineries. The Scarboroughs hope the initiative will attract new attention from visitors from across the state.
"Running Hare Vineyard and the four other wineries in Calvert County are a great draw for visitors who want to sample fine local wine and experience the natural beauty of this area," said Mark Volland, public information specialist for the economic development agency, in an e-mail. "… They are helping to preserve land while offering unique choices for visitors."
The Frederick Wine Trail, the state's first, launched two years ago, and includes wineries in Frederick and Montgomery counties. A winery was also launched this year in Harford County.
Tranquility — and winemaking
The Scarboroughs, who have day jobs in Washington and Annapolis, often come to the tranquil spot on their 291-acre property to relax among the vines.
They never thought their venture, which began as a "hobby that got way out of control," would grow so fast, Michael Scarborough said. What is now Running Hare Vineyard began with just 100 vines about seven years ago after he bought the land for weekend hunting getaways.
The grassy, open spot where they sat features a lone table and two chairs. By the end of the summer, it is to be home to a new 7,000-square-foot events building and a 3,000-square-foot patio that will seat 400 people for weddings and other large gatherings.
The couple officially opened the business last August and expect to see their seven-figure investment in three full-time staff, a cocktail-tasting pavilion, ceremony pergola and events building pay off.
"Most entrepreneurs look at the back end. They never figure out what the customer wants … we'll let the back end take care of itself," said Scarborough, an Annapolis money manager.
The couple, who lived in Annapolis, now live next to the vineyard full time. Guests staying in a nearby cottage have a bird's-eye view of oak barrels and tanks holding hundreds of gallons of juices and wines. The company pumps out about 15,000 bottles at a time per variety and distributes them to stores and restaurants around the state.
"You either buy the equipment and go for it, or you don't," Barbara Scarborough said of the decision to go commercial.
With the help of their winemaker, Billy Peacock, the winery has already won three gold medal awards at the Riverside International Wine Competition in Monterey County, Calif., this year for a Chambourcin, a chardonnay and a pinot grigio.
"What we can't grow here, we'll import the best juices and make the finest wines we can," Michael Scarborough said. "We've spared absolutely no expense to make the best wine possible. I've developed a pretty good palate … I want to make a wine that I want to drink."
The experience has been a learning process for the couple — in making wine and learning retailing and marketing in an increasingly mainstream agribusiness.
"The reason why all the wineries make so much sense is it's so great for agri-tourism," Michael said. "We're really trying to make it look as nice as it can be. It will continue to grow and evolve."
Michael Scarborough and Peacock have learned that making award-winning wines is not always easy.
They often hone new creations by buying the nation's best and top-selling varieties and comparing them with their own.
"You get to a point when you know the wine is right. Winemaking is an art," Michael said. "Each winemaker has a different vision."
The Chambourcin, a dessert wine, has been the most difficult to perfect, but the Malbec was "a blast," Scarborough said.
His newfound profession has even made him more popular at parties, Scarborough said jokingly — "the winemaker is a rock star." But the couple, though passionate about their business, don't see themselves quitting their day jobs anytime soon.
"I tell Mike sleep's overrated," Barbara said. She keeps busy on weekends hosting tastings and tours for visitors who bring picnic lunches to the vineyard. Everyone involved works seven days a week. "It's a labor of love … we have this wonderful property. You have to share it."
Centuries-old industry
Maryland's wine industry is not new. In 1662, Gov. Charles Calvert planted 200 acres of European grapes on the east bank of the St. Mary's River.
But bound by a variety of problems, the crop did not really catch on for centuries.
Rob Deford of Boordy Vineyards in Hydes said the laws 25 years ago hamstrung winemakers. Cooperative marketing did not exist and distributors would not take note of Maryland wines. With no association of growers, each faced these challenges alone.
It was not until a second wave of wine pioneers used cooperative promotion and information exchange in the 1980s that Maryland's wine reputation and industry grew.
Plus, the state has offered more help to growers and winemakers.
"The University of Maryland has a good program," said the Laytons' son William, a businessman by training who has learned farming and helps run Layton's Chance Vineyard and Winery in Vienna in Dorchester County.
In recent years, the state has relaxed some selling restrictions. And this year the General Assembly passed a law allowing the nine-day Montgomery County fair to offer wine-tasting and wine-making exhibitions.
"We think grape-growing is an important crop and we think it's important to share with our community that grape-growing is going on in Montgomery County," said Marty Svrcek, executive director of the Montgomery County Agricultural Center in Gaithersburg, which hosts the annual fair.
Kathy O'Donoghue, co-owner of Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard in Dickerson, said she may participate in the fair. The county's only vineyard produces two white grapes used in its pinot grigio and chardonnay, and five Bordeaux grapes, she said.
"We are agriculture, we are farmers, we have tractors. We watch the heat and the rain as other farmers do," O'Donoghue said.
Staff Writer Patricia M. Murret and Maren Wright of Capital News Service contributed to this report.
