Maryland Community Newspapers Online
Roasted duck is not typically on a Mexican restaurant's menu, and it's not easy to get right. At Plaza Azteca, the Pato Sevillana — a slow cooked duck breast that is sliced and served along with duck leg meat — is fork tender with just the right amount of crispy slightly briny skin. It is generously garnished with Spanish green olives and a sweet, sour and slightly bitter orange flavored brown sauce. If the kitchen can do duck right, then surely the more traditional fare must be capably prepared and presented.
And so it is. Tortilla chips scoop up the chunky salsa like big bites of peppy salad rather than drippy dips of mild hot sauce. Chili con queso is a creamy cheese dip flecked with tomato and green peppers. The highlight of the appetizers is the ceviche, ample fresh white fish in a tart and piquant lime juice dressing with slivers of red onion and plenty of sliced lettuce.
Open just three months, Plaza Azteca is the sibling of Sol Azteca in Olney, which is, in turn, a distant cousin of Mi Mariachi in Wheaton. Located in a strip mall, it is bright, clean and cheery with ample parking just outside. The service is nimble and affable.
Of the entrees, Carne Asada is the classic flavorful cut of skirt steak, marinated, then gently grilled. While plated with the typical house sides of sour cream, salsa, beans and rice, it is prepared, presented and served with care and attention. Even the beans are well-seasoned and properly cooked.
Mariscada Siete Mares is a house specialty with Spanish flair. Its seven different types of shellfish including mussels, scallops, squid, shrimp and a whopper of a cooked and split lobster tail are served in a rich saffron-flavored broth.
Of the current specials, lobster and scallop enchiladas consist of two corn tortillas filled with sautéed lobster meat, scallops and spinach; they are served in a decadent shellfish cream sauce. And the Trio Saltado, a combination of grilled shrimp, slices of skirt steak and grilled chicken served with the house garnishes, makes an ideal carryout entrée. Vegetarians will be pleased to find veggie fajitas, a quesadilla filled with mushrooms, peppers and onions, and a spinach enchilada.
Children can choose small portions of their favorite Mexican dishes from among the side orders, including soft or crispy tacos, french fries, guacamole, rice or beans. And when it comes to dessert, the fried ice cream is a large generous scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream dredged in a crispy caramel candy coating and served in a bowl made from a fried flour tortilla. Finally, the chocolate mousse is both creamy and dreamy.
Plaza Azteca
10430 Auto Park Ave. (Westlake Terrace), Bethesda
301-365-1770
Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m. -10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11p.m.; Lunch menu available until 3 p.m. Mon.-Fri.
Style of cuisine: Mexican
Prices: Appetizers $2.95 - $8.95; Entrees $8.95- $21.95
Credit cards: All major cards
