Umberto’s II
11230 Grandview Ave., Wheaton
301-962-8888
Hours: Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri.–Sun.11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Style of cuisine: Tex-Mex Italian
Dinner entreé prices: $8.95-$18.95
Credit cards: All major cards
Accessible
An order of fried calamari offers an inkling of what is going on in the kitchen at Umberto’s II. Good calamari is so simple in its presentation, yet so contingent on the quality of ingredients and basic technique.
Clumsy calamari is not easily hidden behind exotic coatings and unusual sauce treatments. Fresh squid isn’t too chewy; it has a crisp greaseless coating that clings to the meat. The dish is tastefully seasoned just out from the fryer, and delivered hot to the table with a dipping sauce — either mayonnaise or tomato based.
Santo Medrano immigrated from El Salvador to Montgomery County and in seven years, worked his way up from dishwasher and busboy to proprietor of Umberto’s Cocina, a durable Italian restaurant in Cabin John Shopping Center. Three months ago, he opened Umberto’s II.
Half of the menu at Umberto’s II consists of Medrano’s reliable classic Italian repertoire: antipasti, zuppa, pasta and pesce. The other percentage is made up of classic El Salvadorian and Mexican dishes including enchiladas, burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, tacos, carne asada, lomo satado and multiple versions of combination platters. It is unique to see Sopa de Tortilla (Las Cruces style) listed alongside Pasta I Fagiole in the zuppas (soups) column of the menu. While an exhaustive array of Italian and Salvadorian dishes appear side by side, no dishes attempt to fuse the two cuisines.
Fresh corn tortilla chips and a satisfyingly chunky and tangy salsa are served. At first, our Clams with Sausage emerged from the kitchen sans sausage. Once properly assembled, the half dozen plump, freshly steamed clams served on the shell were enjoyed for their buttery, well seasoned, herb-flecked glaze. The morsels of sausage that garnished the plate were cut to the same size as the pieces of clam, which makes for a nice symmetry on the fork.
While Umberto’s ceviche is not the usual raw fish pickled in lime juice, it is a tasty combination of cooked bay scallops, baby shrimp and squid in a robust citrus and cilantro vinaigrette. The chili relleno and beef enchilada on the Combinacion Mexicana is comparable to the best Wheaton has to offer — which is saying a lot.
Often, dishes bearing the restaurant’s name strive to be signature showstoppers. Umberto’s Salad — grilled chicken, fresh avocado, tomatoes and nicely dressed greens — is simple and well presented. Simple and well made can be more satisfying than fancy and overworked.
Pasta bolognaise is an ample bowl of well-buttered spaghetti with a restrained amount of old fashioned tomato and meat sauce. And pasta with meatballs is equally ample and buttery, with a lot of walnut-sized modestly seasoned meatballs. Plan on sharing pasta dishes, or taking a portion home.
Umberto’s II is still a little sleepy on weekdays, which makes it difficult to maintain such a vast menu. On one occasion, Jose’s Mussels were not available; on another, taquitos were substituted for the chicken tamale on a combination platter. Whether crowded or calm, on three successive visits, the kitchen was consistently poised and ready with fresh calamari. On each occasion, our friendly server compensated quickly for missing items with good substitutions.
Of the three dessert choices proposed to us on one visit, our choice was simplified by the presence of only one: the very rich and very large Pastel de Tres Leches or Three Milk Cake. The sponge cake is soaked in condensed milk, evaporated milk and whole milk or cream. If the Tiramisu and the cheesecake are half as good as the Tres Leches, they alone will be worth a return visit.
Everything at Umberto’s can be ordered as carryout. A sandwich board advertises a fixed price lunch buffet from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Still expanding, Medrano opened the adjoining Umberto’s Bar and Grill, which the same kitchen will service.
By marrying the cuisine of his native El Salvador with the Italian dishes that brought him success in Cabin John, Medrano brings his career full circle. Rather than resort to trendy presentation and slick décor, the success of Umberto’s II hangs on Medrano’s tried and true concept of well-assembled food served in a friendly environment. The kitchen may benefit from paring down some menu items and consolidating the very best of both cuisines.
