Wednesday, Feb. 6, 2008

Eating your way through the Chinese New Year

Celebration educates the public about China’s history, cuisine

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Photo courtesy of the Chinese Culture and Community Service Center, Inc.
Ribbon dancing is a popular Chinese folk dance that will be demonstrated at the Lakeforest celebration.
Just for the moment Rita Lewi wants us to forget the wriggling 70-foot Chinese New Year dragons, the high-kicking marital arts competitors and even the snap, crackle and pop of firecrackers. Instead, let’s think Chinese food — and not just the usual General Tso’s chicken, chop suey and fried rice. This New Year, Lewi is on a mission to spread the word that eating Asian food can be healthy.

Her food fetish started last year when she learned of a report that deemed the dishes served in Chinese restaurants unhealthy. To the horror of every restaurant owner and takeout fanatic, the Center for Science in the Public Interest’s study cited Chinese food for its overabundance of salt, fat and calories.

Although Lewi modestly describes herself as ‘‘just a housewife,” she also is the Executive Director of the Chinese Culture and Community Service Center, Inc. (CCACC), which each year produces the Chinese New Year celebration at Lakeforest Mall in Gaithersburg. With Montgomery County’s Asian population at about 125,000, according to a 2006 study by American Community Survey, she believes it is important to educate folks about China’s complex history and its cuisine.

Fortunately Lewi has the perfect megaphone: This year’s ‘‘Year of the Rat” Chinese New Year celebration takes place Saturday and Sunday and again on Feb. 16 and 17. While she has been busy coordinating the musical performances, calligraphy and flower arranging demonstrations, operas, folk dancing and the ubiquitous marital arts events, each year the event also incorporates a special educational theme into mix.

Feeling maligned by the negative publicity, Lewi decided it was time to address this issue and to that end ‘‘Is Chinese Food Healthy?” became this year’s educational poster child. Throughout the mall’s center court, large colorful displays, written in both English and Chinese, provide information about the development of Chinese food from 1122 B.C. to the present. Photographs illustrate the variety of regional foods, Chinese cold plates and Buddhist vegetarian cuisine. The exhibit even offers a primer on ‘‘Healthy Eating, the Chinese Way,” with advice to nix the deep-fried dishes, go easy on the sauces, especially soy, and always share.

Even without the bad press, on Chinese New Year is all about the food. And like Thanksgiving, this two-week celebration is a time to prepare and eat vast amounts of it. Even ancestors are included, with special dishes and scented flowers placed around photographs of deceased family members.

White Oak Librarian Chang-yo Hsiao admits she has been preparing for Chinese New Year festivities at the Silver Spring Library, but not at home. Like 12 other Montgomery County Public Libraries, the branch will celebrate with special events. And Hsiao is thrilled that Master Chung-Jen Chang, a consultant on Oscar winner Ang Lee’s film ‘‘Pushing Hands,” consented to give Tai Chi demonstrations on Saturday, Feb. 16.

For this busy librarian and mother, the celebration has to be pared down.

‘‘We try to do something,” she says. But with the start of the New Year on Thursday, ‘‘a school day,” homework will not allow the family celebration to be elaborate.

In fact, this extended celebration can seem daunting to busy Chinese Americans. Traditionally on the first day of the New Year, families eat a vegetarian dish called jai, usually consisting of root vegetables and tofu. Other foods eaten during the week have symbolic meaning: A whole fish represents togetherness and abundance. Chicken, served with everything — head, tail and feet — intact, represents completeness. In China’s southern regions, rice puddings are popular, while in the north, steam wheat bread and meat dumplings often are prepared.

Each New Year, Edward Shen, owner of Seven Seas Restaurant in Rockville, plans for the scores of busy Chinese families and other patrons who come to his restaurant for their special meal. And while he always serves dumplings — often called ‘‘golden nuggets,” symbolizing prosperity — he had to give up one aspect of the tradition. In China, a coin is placed inside a dumpling and the lucky person who finds it receives a red envelope of money.‘‘We can’t do that any more,” Shen says. ‘‘A child might eat it and choke.”

For Shen, the New Year is just another busy workday. Since moving to the U.S. from Taiwan in the 1970s, he has watched traditions change radically. Some 30-plus years ago, many Chinese restaurants closed for the day. Of course, this was nothing compared to the celebrations in China, where stores frequently were closed for four days to two weeks, Shen notes. But in an overworked, overscheduled America, most folks are too busy to cook the traditional dishes and the Chinese New Year restaurant biz is booming.

Just remember to spare the soy sauce and say good-bye to the General.

Lakeforest Mall, 701 Russell Ave, Gaithersburg, will host the ‘‘Year of the Rat Celebration,” marking the largest indoor Lunar New Year event in the Mid-Atlantic region, on Saturdays and Sundays, Feb. 9-10 and Feb. 16-17. The opening ceremony is planned for Feb. 9, noon to 5 p.m. All events are free. Call 301-670-0599 or visit www.simon.com.

Montgomery County will celebrate the following free Chinese New Year events:

Libraries

Saturday, Feb. 9

Amy Chen will lead the program, ‘‘The Year of the Rat,” through stories, shadow show, dances and crafts for children 4 and older at 2 p.m. in the Bethesda Library, 7400 Arlington Road. Call 240-777-0970.

A Chinese New Year celebration featuring The Li-Ming Chinese Academy will include the lion dance, New Year traditions, Chinese shadow puppetry, Chinese wu-shu, zither, folk dance, Chinese yo-yo demonstration and hands-on experiences in Chinese arts at 2 p.m. in the Germantown Library, 19840 Century Blvd. Call 240-777-0110.

A ‘‘Lunar New Year Celebration,” for ages 6 and older, will feature performances, demonstrations and exhibits by the Kuang Chi Chinese School, the lion dance by the East Rising Lion Dance Troupe, Chinese folk dance, music, watercolor painting, calligraphy and Chinese New Year customs and hands-on activities. This event starts at 3 p.m. in the Rockville Library, 21 Maryland Ave. Call 240-777-0140.

Saturday, Feb. 16

The Chinese New Year will be celebrated with storytelling, a puppet lion dance, songs and Tai Chi performances by Master Chung-Jen Chang at 11 a.m. in the White Oak Library, 11701 New Hampshire Ave. Silver Spring. Children of all ages will take home one red envelope and a craft kit. Call 240-773-9555.

The Chinese New Year celebration will feature The Li-Ming Chinese Academy, and include the lion dance, New Year traditions, Chinese shadow puppetry, Chinese wu-shu, zither, folk dance, Chinese yo-yo demonstration, and hands-on experiences in Chinese arts at 2 p.m. in the Kensington Park Library, 4201 Knowles Ave. Preregistration is required; call 240-773-9515.

The Year of the Rat celebration, for all ages, with the Washington D.C. Wong People, will feature the lion dance, a martial arts demonstration and exhibits at 11:30 a.m. in the Aspen Hill Library, 4407 Aspen Hill Rd., Rockville. The program is for all ages. Call 240-773-9410.

Performances, demonstrations and exhibits by the Kuang Chi Chinese School will feature the lion dance by the East Rising Lion Dance Troupe as well as Chinese folk dance, music, watercolor painting, calligraphy, Chinese New Year customs and hands-on activities for ages 6 and older at 1:30 p.m. in the Potomac Library, 10101 Glenolden Drive. Call 240-777-0690.

A family program celebrating the Chinese Year of the Rat, with lion dance, songs, Chinese calligraphy, the Mei-Hwa Chinese School and Chinese paper-cutting activities will begin at 1 p.m. in the Wheaton Library, 11701 Georgia Ave. Call 240-777-0678.

A Chinese New Year celebration will feature the lion dance performed by the Chinese Youth Club at 11 a.m.; Chinese paper-cutting performed by the Chinese American Parents & Students Association at 1 p.m.; and Tai Chi Chun, Tai Chi Sword performed by the Wu Wei Tai Chi Club at 1:30 p.m. in the Germantown Library, 19840 Century Blvd. Call 240-777-0110.

Other venues

Saturday, Feb. 9

Be You Bi Yu Spa and Heineman Myers Contemporary Art will host a Chinese New Year celebration at 6 p.m. Saturday, Feb. 9 in Shields Drive, Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda. Call 301-493-4911.

Sunday, Feb. 10

Wheaton in Winter will host Chinese New Year featuring ancient Chinese storytelling with Linda Fang on Sunday, Feb. 10 from 1 to 3 p.m. at Mid-County Regional Services Center, 2424 Reedie Drive, Wheaton. Visit www.montgomerycounty.gov⁄wheaton or call 240-777-8100.

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