Chris Rossi/The Gazette The vegetale pizza at Mia's Pizzas in Bethesda

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Chris Rossi/The Gazette On the table at Mia's are, clockwise from left, watermelon, tomato, cucumber and feta salad; the locally-sourced summer tomato, corn and shrimp pizza, and the vegetale pizza.
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Chris Rossi/The Gazette The vegetale pizza at Mia's Pizzas in Bethesda

Chris Rossi/The Gazette The vegetale pizza at Mia's Pizzas in Bethesda

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Mia’s is not just for Neapolitan wood-fired pizza anymore. In response to customer requests, owner-chef Melissa Ballinger retooled her lineup earlier this year.

“The whole new menu has been a big learning curve [for the staff], but they stepped up to the plate,” she says.

The expanded menu plus a kitchen update new ovens, fryers and grills reinforces the appeal of the 4-year-old Bethesda restaurant.

On a balmy summer evening, there’s no nicer place for people (and pet) watching than on the patio where cords of wood for the oven line one wall.

“Summer has been hard on produce,” Ballinger acknowledges.

Nonetheless, summer specials like watermelon, tomato, cucumber and feta salad, the witty “two bean or not two bean” (yellow and green wax beans with fresh corn, baby tomatoes and roasted zucchini) and my favorite, roasted beets, fresh mango and orange nestled on piquant baby arugula are selling well.

Two salads from the regular menu happily echo the meld of sweet, savory and sharp: the first, spinach with apples, Craisins, goat cheese and candied pecans dressed with cranberry-apple cider; the second, arugula, pear, gorgonzola and toasted pine nuts in a sherry vinaigrette. Add one of three tasty bruschettas to a salad and for a light meal.

Among the summer list’s timely pizzas are one that turns local tomatoes, corn, shrimp and pesto into a winning combination and another that pairs fresh figs and prosciutto.

That’s taking nothing away from the regular menu where the mussels al forno are first-rate and the antipasto platters (the familiar prosciutto, salami, olives and oven roasted veggies) or the Mediterranean (with hummos, olives, marinated tomatoes, feta and warm flatbread) weather summer nicely.

As the passing parade evidences, wood-fired pizzas are still people pleasers. The top five, according to Mia herself, are (in no order) Alsace (pancetta, carmelized onions and gruyere), salsiccia (the sausage is made in-house), multi carni (pepperoni, sausage and bacon), formaggio (five cheeses) and vegetale.

After I explain to a friend what a calzone is, he tries the high-domed veggie version and becomes a fan.

Fresh pastas, like sweet pumpkin ravioli in a rich ricotta, parmesan sage cream sauce, made their debut this year. So did popular nightly specials ranging from Monday’s eggplant parmigiana and Tuesday’s wood roasted chicken breast to Friday’s frutti di mare served over linguini and Saturday’s grilled salmon.

We hit a flavorful garlic, thyme and oregano-accented roast pork loin served with polenta and broccolini on Thursday, one of three meaty days.

A trio of crème brulée, orange cinnamon, chocolate and butterscotch, gets a thumbs-up from a neighbor, while we share the ample blueberry crumble and light-textured chocolate chip bread pudding.

The extended beer and wine offerings (wines $25 to $58 a bottle, $7 to $13 a glass) and children’s menu are welcome newcomers.

A half-dozen panini, available only at lunch, are reason enough for a mid-day visit. A weekend brunch is planned for the future.

Monday evening brings a bonus between 6 and 8 p.m. mellow jazz on acoustic guitar and bass by the Cory Todd Duo.

Mia’s doesn’t accept reservations, but call 20 minutes prior to arrival and your name will go on a call-ahead list.

Good food, good cause: Black Restaurant Group will host its second annual "Pig Out for Diabetes" Saturday, Sept. 10, noon to 5 p.m., at Black Market Bistro, 4600 Waverly Ave. in Garrett Park. Chef/owners Barbara and Jeff Black are teaming up with The Washington Nationals Diabetes Care Complex and Children’s National Medical Center to raise money for juvenile diabetes. The event will feature a barbecue competition, silent auction, art show, children’s activities, live bands, grilled burgers, hot dogs, BBQ pork, side dishes, desserts and beverages. Judging is at 3 p.m. For tickets, $40 (in advance), $50 (at the door), $20 11 and younger, and free, 4 and younger, visit http://www.eventfarm.com/pigout.